From Mostar to Visoko
After two amazing days in Mostar we decided to head back to Budapest, but before leaving Bosnia we wanted to see the Bosnian Pyramids. I remember when it was news and how many articles and Youtube videos were out there for anyone who was hungry for this kind of amusement. I was so I have read that it is the oldest pyramid on Earth and I think even the biggest one and that they found a tunnel network under it with signs of a long lost civilization. I wanted to believe too, maybe because I am obsessed with the ancient cultures. My childhood dream is to travel to Egypt and see all that is left from such a majestic culture. The thought of having something similar, a real pyramid so close to where I live was truly elevating. Of course Philipp is more down to Earth and he was skeptical but he still wanted to believe, he wanted it to be real. So, we ended up in the car which was our home for the past two weeks and filled with excitement we started our journey to Visoko a town closest to the pyramid shaped hills.
Our navigation didn’t get us lost this time, we found Visoko with ease. But when we were there we had some problems finding what we were looking for. We didn’t have to be in the state of confusion for a long time because the locals are very helpful for a bit of money. First, we have met an old fella sitting in a camping chair close to the pyramid of the Moon, the smaller one, but of course we were more interested in the pyramid of the Sun, the bigger one. We approached him for help and gave him a few Euro coins in return for a hand-drawn map on the back of an old business card. He didn’t speak any English or German but miraculously he made himself understood, I assume that is a rare communicational gift that only a very few are blessed with. Luckily his map was pretty accurate so we found the dirt road that was leading us to the pyramid of the Sun. We got little bit unsure of ourselves when we couldn’t see where the road was leading us but a women showed up in a colorful folk dress and helped us out so we gave her the last coins we had. We finally arrived to the parking lot from where we could walk up the hill of the pyramid.
WALK UP, TO THE TOP!
A narrow dirt road and wooden stairs led the way further up the hill through the forest. I was so excited I wanted to feel something timeless and ancient. I wanted to feel what I always imagined it would be like when I could travel to Egypt. I wasn’t alone with this feeling. For a few hours we got to be kids in the world of wonder. Soon we arrived to the first spot with a huge sign in the forest next to the rocks. Endless texts of the excavation and photos all the way up at every few hundred meters. Big scars on the side of the hill revealing something that looks like concrete. Huge stone plates with openings to the stomach of the hill, breathing out cold breeze. It is very exciting to be there and it is easy to believe that this once was something enormous and advanced. Unfortunately after a while the road just ends and disappears in to the steep forest forcing us to go back. Since we really wanted to reach the top, we went around the hill by car and found another route with no signs just a tiring climb on rocks and over bushes.
When our dog Bogi realized that we want to go up again, he miraculously strained his little leg and refused to move one inch. Fortunately at the bottom of the hill there were two elderly men with a souvenir stand where they sold rocks from the mountain and pyramid keychains. They saw what was happening so they offered to take care of the dog until we went up. We thanked and handed over the leash. As we were walking away I looked back and saw that the old man tied Bogi’s leash around a skinny tree so he could lay in the shade and they also gave him some water. I was very touched by their kindness so I decided that on our way back I will definitely buy something from them in return. We walked up all the way to the top. There was nothing but stones something that resembled ruins of an old building. We have seen a group that went there to meditate and to feel the energy of the place. I didn’t feel too much up there but maybe it was because of the heat and I was tired. We have seen it we have been there and I was a tiny bit disappointed that to see the underground tunnels you had to reserve appointments but I guess that is just how life is.
On our way back as we collected the dog I offered money to the old men who refused it saying this is not why they helped us. I felt kind of bad, at the end of the day no one can buy kindness for money. I started to look at what they had and I chose two stones and they gave me a pyramid keychain as a gift as well. We thanked them again and we got back in our car. (Bogi’s leg cured while he was waiting for us, of course).
THE ARGUMENT THAT TOOK US HOME
Our plan was to sleep one night close to the Hungarian border and then go back to Budapest. We didn’t want to drive tired in the night. We were on the road when Philipp asked me to check on the internet about this pyramid. I immediately went to see the Wikipedia page where I found out that this whole thing is most probably just a big fat hoax. He got so angry and disappointed because he wanted to believe so much. I felt for him and if it was a hoax then he was right. It is not a nice thing to lie to people who really want to believe. I told him that this is a nice thing to believe in, in my mind it is harmless since it doesn’t make a change for someone like me. Of course I would love it to be a well-appreciated scientific find but I do like to think that humanity has a much richer, more colorful and a lot older history then we think now. I love the idea that thousands of years ago people were so advanced and not technologically but spiritually that “they could move mountains”. At the end of the day we got into such an argument that we didn’t even realize that we arrived back to Budapest. We still smile when we think about this story. But it was great to get some rest in our own bed that night for sure!
All in all, this place should be visited by anyone who plans to travel to Bosnia. The landscape is very beautiful, artificial or not the pyramid hills are very interesting and it is a very nice trip. Not to mention the road that takes there, along a beautiful river! Believer or not, the landscape is worth it for sure!
If anyone is further interested: